Before balancing, confirm the ring can actually pull the wheel into balance. This is the Flip Test: a quick, measurement-free go/no-go check.
Properly mount the wheel on the hub, if not already done. If you are mounting a wheel onto the hub just prior to this test, it is recommended that you true the wheel on your grinder first. This removes any gross concentricity errors from the manufacturing process. Insert the arbor, place on the balancing stand, and let it settle to find the light side at 12-o'clock. Mark the light side with a pencil mark on the side. Mount the B-200 Balancing Ring on the hub with the logo and the mounting screw aligned with the light-side mark. Replace the wheel onto the balancing stand. If it flips, you're successful. If not, continue.
If the ring alone didn't flip it, fill the six holes nearest the top — E, F, G, 5, 6, 7 — with your heaviest available screws, split around the mounting screw. This piles correction weight onto the light side.
If the wheel does NOT flip, change the ring mounting screws from a setscrew to a socket-head cap screw (SHCS). This adds more weight, and is a last-ditch effort to show that you are able to balance this wheel. If you have not trued the wheel yet, that may also be a problem.
If the wheel now flips — the light side swings down to become the new heavy side — the correction you can apply brackets the correction you need. You're within the ring's range. Remove the screws you added for this test. Proceed to balancing.
| # | Light hole | Rev A | Rev B | Period T (s) | Screws installed (hole : type) | Period after (s) |
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